Again, complete removal of the starter is normally unnecessary. Just pull it out and away from the bell housing so that it does not interfere with the removal of the transmission. Secure the starter with a piece of wire or bungee strap. Do not allow starter to hang by the starter wiring. The cover is normally made of thin metal or aluminum and is held in place by a several 10mm or 12mm bolts.
You can rotate the engine in one of two ways; Use a breaker bar and large socket to rotate the center harmonic balancer bolt on the front of the engine or by leveraging a small pry bar or large screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel and the bell housing in such a way that allows you to turn the flywheel in either direction.
To make this task easier, remove some or all of the spark plugs from the engine. These are usually more difficult to remove because there is very little space. This situation will create a real mess and can be potentially dangerous. With the weight of the transmission resting on the jack, remove the transmission mount bolts. Removing the transmission mount bolts or nuts allows the transmission to be separated from the cross member. Tip: If cross member bolts are difficult to remove, you need to raise the transmission jack to take more of the weight off the cross member.
Unless the vehicle has duel exhaust all the way back, which most do not, there is a crossover pipe that connects the left side exhaust to the right side. At a minimum, the crossover pipe must be removed. Once the crossover pipe is removed, look closely at the exhaust pipe, the section of the exhaust system that includes the catalytic converter and muffler to determine if it also needs to be removed.
Tip: Remove any section of the exhaust system that you feel could interfere with your ability to separate the transmission from the engine and lower it to the floor. Having to remove parts of the exhaust after the transmission is separated from the engine is much more difficult.
The bolt you leave in should be one of bottom bolts that is easy to get too. To remove the top bell housing bolts, if you have not already done so, lower the transmission jack so that the rear of the transmission drops down and away from the undercarriage of the vehicle. This will increase the work space on the top side of the transmission enabling you to use a ratchet and long extension to remove the upper bell housing bolts.
Note: When lowering the transmission in order to give you the added work space needed to remove the top bell housing bolts, the weight of the transmission still needs to be supported by the jack. If the jack is lowered completely, the engine will tilt severely on its mounts, possible weakening or breaking the mounts. Caution: Some hydraulic floor jacks are very sensitive when lowering and can drop suddenly. For added safety, place a jack stand directly under the rear of the transmission to serve as a hard stop.
Also check to make sure nothing else will interfere with separating the transmission from the engine and lowering it to the floor. When the jack is fully lowered, carefully slide the transmission off the jack to the floor. Now, slide the transmission out from underneath the vehicle. Therefore, it is crucial that the transmission remain level or slightly titled down in the rear while being lowered to the floor. If the front of the transmission is allowed to tilt downward, the converter may slide out of the transmission and fall hard to the floor.
The converter is very heavy and filled with fluid — if it falls, it could injure you or your assistant. The converter could also be damaged and it will surely create a huge mess. Note: The fluid will need to be drained from the converter regardless of whether you plan to reuse it or replace it. If you plan to replace the torque converter with a new or rebuilt converter, the old converter must be drained of the fluid in order to use it as a core when purchasing the new or rebuilt converter.
Torque Converter Installation Note: You must be certain the torque converter is fully seated into the transmission before installation.
You should feel three distinctive clicks each time the converter drops into place. Continue wiggling the torque converter and rotating it back and forth while pushing in until it is fully engaged. Do not proceed with transmission installation until the converter is fully engaged. Tip: If you had your transmission rebuilt, ask the rebuilder to install the torque converter into the transmission. Flushing Cooler Lines Note: Flushing the oil cooler lines before installing a new or rebuilt transmission is absolutely necessary to insure the new transmission is not contaminated with debris and metal left in the lines from the old transmission.
To flush the lines, first blow compressed air through the lines. Use a gallon milk jug to catch the fluid and debris as it is blown out of the lines.
After blowing compressed air through the lines, use a transmission line flush product to complete the flush. Follow instructions provided with product. Not flushing the cooler lines is the 1 cause of early failure of a newly rebuilt or remanufactured transmission into a vehicle. Also check the dowel pins on the engine and the dowel pin holes on the transmission as they also must be clean and free of burs.
Use a small round file to remove any burs. Make sure you take a look at the fluid before you do anything with your transmission. The clutch that locks the transmission to the engine at highway speed can wear out just like a normal manual transmission clutch. This is one of the most common issues that causes a torque converter to go bad. This will create the same symptoms as the bad seals in that the converter is going to puke a bunch of ATF all over your garage floor, but you should also be feeling quite the vibration at speed.
If you suspect this could be what is going on with your transmission, just know that if those bolts come all the way out the least that is going to happen is that it disengages from the input shaft.
It takes a bit longer for the transmission to warm up than the engine. Give it a few extra minutes after the engine warms up all the way. This will ensure that the transmission is shifting as it would nearly all the time that it normally operates. Pay particular attention to any shuddering and vibration as you accelerate. Shuddering and vibration are in no way a guarantee that something is wrong with the torque converter, but they are a strong indicator there could be something wrong.
This makes diagnosing torque converter problems challenging. Once all the head bolts have been installed and finger tightened you can start the torqueing process, almost all head bolts have a multi-step process for torqueing. Then you must again torque them to 15 ft-lbs and then 30 ft-lbs and finally add 90 degrees by going through each bolt with each step. After torquing the heads are completely installed and you can now move to intalling the timing.
On the Ford 2. This belt system consists of a sprocket on both of the camshafts, a tensioner, an idle or guide pulley, and a sprocket on the crankshaft. Before installing the belt itself make sure all the components are tight.
The camshaft sprockets get tightened to 50 ft-lbs, while the tensioner and idler gets tightened to 18 ft-lbs. The camshafts are held down to the cylinder head by camshaft bearing caps which should be tightened to 15 ft-lbs. With the sprockets tight you can move the sprockets to the correct locations and then install the belt by tensioning the tensioner and placing its grooves into the sprocket grooves.
The correct timing procedure is shown in the picture. Along with the timing system is a crankshaft position sensor which should be tightened to 15 ft-lbs. The timing cover on the 2. This cover can be installed once the timing components are on and correctly in place. On the cover itself are 3 different sets of bolts, there is the upper and lower bolts which get tightened to 8 ft-lbs and then the middle bolts which get tightened to 37 ft-lbs.
You can distinguish between the bolt types by the sizes of the bolts. The larger diameter bolts get tightened down to the higher torque value. Much like the timing cover on the 2. For this reason I recommend using a new gasket as well as some silicone sealant during installation.
Using the same technique as before with the cover you clean the surfaces of both the oil pan and the engine block and then install the new gasket onto the block and then follow it up with some silicone sealant.
Be sure to follow your sealants instructions to ensure you get the best seal from your application. The oil pan bolts torque to 8 ft-lbs in a cross pattern design. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Disconnect the electrical wires using a wrench, then lay the starter out of the way. After removing one bolt, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until the next bolt appears in the window of accessibility.
Continue to turn the crankshaft until all three or four bolts are removed.
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